'WHAT FOOD DO YOU MISS MOST?'

Most of my relatives would expect me to respond with a local dish like chicken rice or laksa, but the truth is that I don't get homesick food-wise.

Given the sheer number of eateries in the UK, a decent (overpriced) version of a Singapore/Malaysian dish isn't beyond reach. Along with Prima Taste products, recreating a local dish takes minimal effort. Yuet Loy's food on the other hand, is something I can only enjoy when I'm in Singapore.

Tze char culture is pretty strong in Singapore. For my family, it's a weekly Sunday dinner affair with my extended family. Yuet Loy is always a welcome dinner option for all 3 generations.

YUET LOY

It's a nondescript family-run stall in the maze that is Chinatown Complex Market & Food Centre. At times, their signboard isn't even lit.

I don't recall the first time I ate at Yuet Loy but I've been eating there long enough to see their family expand from 3 to 8 (I'm not that old yet). I am certain that the day that Yuet Loy closes for good will make me feel worse than the day that Anthony Bourdain died. The food is great, ambience arguably better.

Sometimes, I wonder whether I'm especially fond of Yuet Loy because it captures the vibe of a stereotypical Hong Kong eatery, with unpredictably brusque service and loud voices. It's run by Brenda, her husband (the chef), and her daughter, Mei Teng, with the occasional cameo appearance by Mei Teng's husband, twin sons, and two daughters. Mr Fong, the chef, is a reserved master of the wok, while Brenda and Mei Teng both have distinctly sharp voices. Those voices, coupled with Cantonese, makes for a very lively atmosphere, much like the interactions between my mum and grandma in HK.

FOOD

It's a concise repertoire of Cantonese food, made from just a wok and a steamer. Every dish goes well with rice, and somehow, I'd end up eating all the aromatics (thinly sliced ginger & scallions) too.

Some days, Brenda is in a better mood than others, entertaining questions on how the dishes are prepared. For example, they use peanut oil for cooking, and Del Monte ketchup for their sweet & sour pork (咕噜肉), as opposed to far cheaper alternatives. It is modest menu but there is still a keen attention to detail. Above all, I don't think I've found any close alternative to Yuet Loy.

I wish the photos turned out better but I suppose this is what 'ugly-deliciousness' is all about. The satisfaction from these dishes makes up for what they lack in visual appeal. It's good food, I promise.

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